Wednesday, 1 October 2014

the best of fashion month (part 1)

I have started to review my favourite shows of fashion month and I'm going to print them into a zine. I'll send free hard copies to anyone who buys a hard copy of Pretty over the next few months. Issue 6 is now up and it's my favourite one yet so I think you should buy it. The purpose of these fashion shows reviews is mostly to practice some more "professional" writing skills with the hope of writing something that is worth putting in my creative writing portfolio for uni. I'm going to include some short stories and articles (not poems because they are all on screwed up bits of paper under my pillow/at the bottom of my underwear drawer/at the back of my wardrobe in handbags I haven't used for ten years), but as it's supposed to represent you and what you want to do, I figured I should probably put some fashion related articles in there too. 
A secondary objective is to get all my favourites in one place in a cohesive manner. Writing about each collection in my own words has made me realise why I like this selection of shows so much and given me a deeper understanding of the concepts behind them. 
To properly read each of these it might be easier to zoom in or download them as images. I'd love to know what you think of my attempt at being Tim Blanks. 

Alexander Wang SS15: NYFW

The show was fresh and upbeat as models strutted down the runway at a sporty pace to a soundtrack of empowering tunes. The look was fit, healthy off-duty downtown supermodel. Miss Vogue notes that Wang’s popularity is partially due to the revival of health conscious adolescent minds. Looking toned and athletic is to today what hippie/punk/grunge was to our parents and grandparents and Alexander Wang has tuned into this new attitude flawlessly. The clothes exude confidence through their blend of comfort and daringly bright colours. Wang is channelling the streetwise New Yorker who knows how to dress practically and looked on point 24/7.

The music, set and pace of the show all factor into the vibrant atmosphere envisioned by Wang. Although the collection is at the other end of the spectrum to sickeningly predictable Spring/Summer florals, the clothes do have a seasonal sensibility about them. Easily to move in, well fitted and clearly made for an active wearer, Wang channels the more lively connotations with the warmer seasons. The collection itself was abundant with neons and black, all emphasising a sporty simplicity. It consisted also of tailored jackets, harsh, minimalist monochrome prints, introducing an element of professionalism. Athletic casual and tailored work-wear fused together seamlessly to create an empowering, glamorous image.

Noting “sneakers!” as his starting point, Wang appears to have picked up some Parisian style tips since he started designing for Balenciaga. Chanel and Dior have both recently favoured the practical, comfy footwear over spindly sky-high stilettos, proving that the previous faux pas is actually really chic right now. Wang’s show was a burst of energy in New York Fashion Week, making it as stand-out collection.

Unquestionably, Alexander Wang’s SS15 collection was a contemporary, awakening experience. Wang has reaffirmed his place as a future fashion legend and ensured that his H&M collaboration planned for later this year will fly off the shelves and his legion of followers cannot wait. 

Rodarte SS15: NYFW

The show instantly brought to mind tales of mermaids with a taste for punk, as the tough but feminine models glided across the iridescent floor to an ethereal soundtrack that opened up a fantasy world ever so lovingly created by the Mulleavy sisters for their Spring/Summer '15 collection. The models strutted through this aquatic wonderland in a sea of gamine blouses and free-flowing dresses that sparkle like the waves under the midday sun. The soundtrack reflected the oceanic atmosphere of the collection; though fast-paced, the synthesiser created a dreamily haunting feel.

This conceptual world envisioned by the Mulleavys was brought to life through the music, the set, the clothes and the models. One or two of these factors on their own would not have been enough to create such a lasting impression of this enchanting set of sea princesses presented in the show.

Each look was intricately detailed, with embellishments attached to dresses to make it seem as though they had been left at the bottom of the ocean for glitteringly beautiful sea-life attach themselves to. The netting could have looked messy, but done in such an artful manner, it looked positively classy. The embroidery favoured the theme of the collection; adding to the Mulleavys' mystical marine universe.

Though thematic in many other ways, Rodarte's SS15 collection avoids the cliché of wet-look hair in a collection reminiscent of mysterious underwater world. Instead, beauty looks were focused on the multiple eyebrow rings. This, along with the flashing lights and fast beat to help set the scene, introducing a punk element to the otherwise prettily feminine collection. 

The consistent leitmotif of Rodarte worked in the Mulleavy sisters' favour, as it made their SS15 collection one of the most unforgettable of the season. Simple to reference and broad enough to examine from numerous angles, Rodarte SS15 had a charming diversity that inspires a range of creative interpretations to invent in the coming season.

Tom Ford SS15: LFW

Stunningly sensual and seductive, the show mixed melancholy romanticism with punk sensibility. The permeating dark atmosphere stretched beyond the darkness of the makeup and sultry dresses; a darkness of the heart. The makeup, set and models all worked together to create a gothic, underground scene. Its dark atmosphere certainly left an impression. Its consistently shadowy colour scheme went against the grain of Spring/Summer trends. This further suggests that Ford’s intent was to conjure up images of party girls who stay out even after the sun has gone down on the longest day of the year.

The collection consisted of skyscraper heels, dresses so tiny that the tops of stockings were unashamedly visible and diaphanous tops that covered little. These glamorous rebel girls looked ready to turn heads at all the uptown parties. The glittery fabrics resonated with the lights of a late night party.

Tom Ford himself was not at the show to comment on the collection afterwards, but whispered rumours backstage suggested that Debbie Harry was a key figure in inspiring the presented image. The punky eye makeup and hairstyles could confirm this, but it appears to be darker than that. 

The looks were relatively simplistic, but that makes them all the more versatile and adaptable. With his S/S ’15 collection Tom Ford created a mysterious after-dark world that captured both the upbeat highs and melancholy lows of night-time in the city. 

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