Saturday, 29 September 2018

y/project spring 2019

Glenn Martens' Y/Project is a label of contradictions. Elegance vs bad taste. Try hard vs effortless. Celebrities vs fashion cred. Nowhere is this more obvious that in his Spring 2019 collection. Scattered with pieces that can take you from the beach to the party, sportswear sits in harmony with officewear.

Y/Project has a habit of coming across as try-hard edgy. There are many occurrences of this here. The brand's success is, in part, due to its coexistence with the ugly fashion trend. The denim hot pants that look like bikini bottoms would definitely get the shit ripped out of them in an article on Buzzfeed or The Tab if a high street brand tried to emulate them. Small sunglasses have become ironic, yet Y/Project proves the trend is not quite dead. Slouchiness is a brand staple. Joggers at Paris Fashion Week are yet another way that Martens plays with contradictions. Like the thigh-high ugg boots, it is hard to tell how seriously we are meant to take them.

If any collection can conjure up the cool girl in all her many incarnations, then it is Y/Project- after all, the brand is a favourite of Rihanna, Solange and Gigi Hadid. This is the perfect collection for anyone who does not wish to subscribe to one aesthetic. It offers the opportunity to try on numerous looks and the lifestyles and personalities that come with them. There are check miniskirts for the modern day Cher Horowitz and baja hoodies for the eternal undergraduates. There are laidback slip dresses for Ibiza party girls and Saint Laurent-esque silks for the Paris socialite.

Vogue describes Y/Project's latest offering as "chic." I wouldn't go as far as that. The YSL-inspired dresses bring the collection to a cohesive close, but it still sits definitely in the hype brand category. The only time Y/Project exudes elegance is when it is try not to look like Y/Project. Chic? No, but it did leave me curious about in what direction Martens will take the brand next.

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